Expeditions

  • Hummingbird Ridge | Episode 4 & 5

    Hummingbird Ridge on Mt, Logan, Canada's tallest mountain, has yet to be repeated. Hummingbird Ridge on Mt, Logan, Canada's tallest mountain, has yet to be repeated.

    Hummingbird Ridge - Still Waiting for a 2nd Ascent | North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 4 & 5

    WITH MARK & JANELLE SMILEY

    Those of you fortunate enough to have seen Mark Smiley's presentation at Feathered Friends back in September got a pretty good idea of how brutal Mt. Logan's (19,551') Hummingbird Ridge really was. Now, with the release of North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 4 & 5, everybody can see why this "classic" has only had one successful ascent... half a century ago...

    Part I

    Part II

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  • The Canadian Pilgrimage - with Jed Porter

    Hut Skiing in the Selkirk Mountains

    -Words and Photos by Jed Porter

    Canada is where it’s at. As much as we Americans love our local skiing, its our northern neighbors that truly hold the goods. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love skiing in all corners of the United States. We have an amazing diversity of terrain, cultures, and climates in which to practice the white and slippery. If an American ski mountaineer were to assemble a “bucket list” of must do trip types, many could be accomplished on home turf. However, there is one type of ski vacation that is simply better in Canada.

    There’s nothing like arriving at a remote backcountry hut after a long day in the uncertain wild. Meagan Buck Porter strips skins. There’s nothing like arriving at a remote backcountry hut after a long day in the uncertain wild. Meagan Buck Porter strips skins.

    Western Canada, with its reliable snow and unique land-use patterns and history, is blessed with some of the best backcountry, hut-based ski touring on the planet. Continue reading

  • Ancient Art - The Coolest Top Out In Climbing? | Episode 2

    Ancient Art - The Coolest Top Out In Climbing? | North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 2

    WITH MARK & JANELLE SMILEY

    Episode 2 is live! From perfect splitters, terrible weather, dicey double cornices, stellar granite, Mark and Janelle Smiley saw a lot of what climbing had to offer in 2014. Each climb has attributes that make them unique and special. One look at Ancient Art in Utah's Fisher Towers and it's abundantly clear what makes this climb a classic - it is remarkably aesthetic. It's main corkscrew route to the tiny top is a climb that draws climbers from around the world.

    Because of its sandstone composition, Ancient Art may very well be ancient history in the near future. Check out what makes this classic so special with Mark and Janelle Smiley, and get after it!

    Looking down from the tiny top-out of Ancient Art. Janelle Smiley on the belay. Looking down from the tiny top-out of Ancient Art. Janelle Smiley on the belay.

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  • Fine Jade (5.11a) - Utah's Finest Sandstone Tower | Episode 1

    Fine Jade (5.11a) - Utah's Best Sandstone Tower | North America's Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 1

    With Mark & Janelle Smiley

    Check out the first episode in 2015 from Mark & Janelle Smiley and EpicTV from Fine Jade, an absolute desert classic. Right on The Rectory in Moab's Castle Valley, with fine views of Castleton Tower, and complemented by some of the finest sandstone cracks imaginable, it should be high on any trad climber's list. See what this fantastic line in Utah's high desert is all about!

    As an epicenter for climbing, Moab's Castle Valley contains many classics, including Fine Jade (5.11a) As an epicenter for climbing, Moab's Castle Valley contains many classics, including Fine Jade (5.11a). Photo: Mark Smiley

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  • Barry Blanchard 'The Calling' Reading and Slideshow - Nov 3

    Barry Blanchard will be at Feathered Friends November 3rd for a book reading and slideshow of his new book 'The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains' Barry Blanchard will be at Feathered Friends November 3rd for a book reading and slideshow of his new book 'The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains'

    The Calling with Barry Blanchard

    Join us at Feathered Friends November 3rd, 2014 for a special event with alpinist Barry Blanchard!

    One of North America’s top alpinists, Barry Blanchard will be reading excerpts and showing images from his new book The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains. Known for pushing the standards of highly technical, high-risk alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalaya, Barry is a mountain guide and a Patagonia alpine climber who lives in Canmore, Alberta.

    After his presentation, Barry will answer questions and sign books, which will be available for sale.

    See you then!

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Barry Blanchard The Calling reading, slideshow, and book signing - presented by Patagonia & Feathered Friends
    When: Monday, November 3rd
    Time: Doors at 7pm | Begins at 7:30pm
    Cost: Free!
    Bonus: Food and Beverages | Q & A | Book Signing

    Get a taste of the alpine adventures of Barry Blanchard on November 3rd. Here, Barry Blanchard high traversing high up on Cassin Ridge on Denali. Photo: Kevin Doyle @patagoniabooks Barry Blanchard high on Cassin Ridge on Denali. Photo: Kevin Doyle @patagoniabooks
  • Mikey Schaefer and FORCE: A Film by Duct Tape Then Beer

    Join us at Feathered Friends for a screening of Force, a film by Patagonia ambassador Mikey Schaefer and Fitz Cahall of Duct Tape Then Beer. Join us at Feathered Friends for a screening of Force, a film by Patagonia ambassador Mikey Schaefer and Fitz Cahall of Duct Tape Then Beer. Photo: Mikey Schaefer

    Mikey Schaefer and FORCE: A Film by Duct Tape Then Beer

    Join us at Feathered Friends September 16th, 2014 for a screening of Force, a film by Patagonia climber and photographer Mikey Schaefer and Fitz Cahall of Duct Tape Then Beer.

    Since he was a young climber, Patagonia ambassador and photographer Mikey Schaefer has been simultaneously drawn and repelled by the ferocity of the world’s greatest mountains, and in the last decade he’s made an annual pilgrimage to El Chaltén, Argentina, to ferret out new routes. The photos he has taken during his time there have propelled him into a career in photography. Now, his images and film footage capture the imagination of today’s young climbers who aspire to climb in the windswept wilderness of Patagonia.

    Sit back, enjoy the film and afterwards wander a photo gallery of Mikey’s work. Event attendees may order prints, with all proceeds benefiting the Access Fund.

    Don't miss it!

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Mikey Schaefer and FORCE: A Film by Duct Tape Then Beer
    When: Tuesday, September 16th
    Time: Doors at 7pm. Starts at 7:30pm
    Cost: FREE!
    Bonus: Refreshments | Prints of Mikey's work available

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  • Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge - Sept 11

    Back from a safe climb on Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge, Mark Smiley will be presenting on the expedition of the classic route, as well as other classic climbs done in 2014. Join us 11th of the September! Back from a safe climb on Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge, Mark Smiley will be presenting on the expedition of the classic route, as well as other classic climbs done in 2014. Join us 11th of the September!

    Hummingbird Ridge

    It sounds innocuous enough: Hummingbird Ridge. Its one ascent, however, would suggest otherwise. As Allen Steck was a member of the successful (and very bold) 1967 climb, he included the ridge in the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. With very few attempts, and more deaths than summits, it seems a bit of a cruel joke 35 years after publication.

    In mid-2014, the team of Mark & Janelle Smiley, Jed Porter, and Reiner Thoni flew in from Silver City in the Yukon Territory to a less-than-ideal Seward Glacier, and got a taste of the infamous ridge, double cornices and all. See what this unbelievable expedition was all about with stellar photos and stories.

    As action packed as late 2013 and 2014 have been, Mark will also highlight the Palisades Traverse in the High Sierra, and give a sneak peek at their excellent videos that will be coming out this fall.

    Don't miss it!

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Mt Logan: Hummingbird Ridge - a multimedia show with Mark Smiley
    When: Thursday, September 11th
    Time: Starts at 7:30pm
    Cost: $5 at the door - includes a raffle ticket
    Bonus: Raffle swag from Arc'teryx, La Sportiva, and Feathered Friends

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  • West Ridge of Mt. Hunter | with Jed Porter

    Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo

    West Ridge of Mount Hunter, AK

    Climbing with Jon A is a guide's dream come true. While I have rambled on about the experience before, dishing out the platitudes over the years (Palisade Traverse '12, Evolution '12. Not documented: Palisade Traverse '09, V-Notch '10, Tetons '13), it still blows my mind to spend time with such a hard-charging, tough-as-nails, mountain fanatic. He is strong and mentally driven. He trains like a fiend and takes direction like a good soldier. Like most mountain fanatics, he tackles life's big questions with action and drive. That being said, I won't embarrass him to say that he needs my guidance just as much as any guest. He has his strengths and weaknesses. Long days of action are no problem. His residence at altitude works in our favor time and again. His pursuit of the finish line is deeply motivated. But he also pushes and scares himself sick and is happy to delegate technical skills and high-mountain risk management to this grateful pro.

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  • Yosemite - Middle Cathedral Rock | Committed

    Yosemite's Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress

    Situated on the south-side of the Yosemite Valley, looking directly at El Capitan, Middle Cathedral Rock is often overshadowed by the formers' reputation and prominence (speaking of which, check out the Smiley's climb of The Nose on El Cap). The 11 pitch East Buttress on Middle Cathedral Rock is, however, an absolute Yosemite classic. Check out Mark & Janelle Smiley's climb of the East Buttress as part of their mega-project to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory

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  • Patagonia Alpinism with Colin Haley - Nov 12

    Join us November 12 for a slideshow from Colin Haley on his home away from home: Patagonia Join us November 12 for a slideshow from Colin Haley on his home away from home: Patagonia

    Patagonia Alpinism: One Year in the Life of an Addict

    Colin Haley has been on a tear. The Seattle local has his climbing roots in the Cascades, but he has been linking up phenomenal climbs around the world. Colin has been spending much of his time playing in the climbing playground that is Patagonia. See what he has been up to and what makes Patagonia so special to him in an evening that promises to be awesome.

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: 'Patagonia Alpinism' slideshow with Colin Haley
    When: Tuesday, November 12th
    Time: Starts at 8pm
    Cost: Free!
    Bonus: Beverages, swag, and more!

    See you there!

    -----

    Check out much of Colin's climbing activity on his Skagit Alpinism blog

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Expedition Tales