Expeditions

  • Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge - Sept 11

    Back from a safe climb on Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge, Mark Smiley will be presenting on the expedition of the classic route, as well as other classic climbs done in 2014. Join us 11th of the September! Back from a safe climb on Mt Logan's Hummingbird Ridge, Mark Smiley will be presenting on the expedition of the classic route, as well as other classic climbs done in 2014. Join us 11th of the September!

    Hummingbird Ridge

    It sounds innocuous enough: Hummingbird Ridge. Its one ascent, however, would suggest otherwise. As Allen Steck was a member of the successful (and very bold) 1967 climb, he included the ridge in the book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. With very few attempts, and more deaths than summits, it seems a bit of a cruel joke 35 years after publication.

    In mid-2014, the team of Mark & Janelle Smiley, Jed Porter, and Reiner Thoni flew in from Silver City in the Yukon Territory to a less-than-ideal Seward Glacier, and got a taste of the infamous ridge, double cornices and all. See what this unbelievable expedition was all about with stellar photos and stories.

    As action packed as late 2013 and 2014 have been, Mark will also highlight the Palisades Traverse in the High Sierra, and give a sneak peek at their excellent videos that will be coming out this fall.

    Don't miss it!

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Mt Logan: Hummingbird Ridge - a multimedia show with Mark Smiley
    When: Thursday, September 11th
    Time: Starts at 7:30pm
    Cost: $5 at the door - includes a raffle ticket
    Bonus: Raffle swag from Arc'teryx, La Sportiva, and Feathered Friends

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  • West Ridge of Mt. Hunter | with Jed Porter

    Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo

    West Ridge of Mount Hunter, AK

    Climbing with Jon A is a guide's dream come true. While I have rambled on about the experience before, dishing out the platitudes over the years (Palisade Traverse '12, Evolution '12. Not documented: Palisade Traverse '09, V-Notch '10, Tetons '13), it still blows my mind to spend time with such a hard-charging, tough-as-nails, mountain fanatic. He is strong and mentally driven. He trains like a fiend and takes direction like a good soldier. Like most mountain fanatics, he tackles life's big questions with action and drive. That being said, I won't embarrass him to say that he needs my guidance just as much as any guest. He has his strengths and weaknesses. Long days of action are no problem. His residence at altitude works in our favor time and again. His pursuit of the finish line is deeply motivated. But he also pushes and scares himself sick and is happy to delegate technical skills and high-mountain risk management to this grateful pro.

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  • Yosemite - Middle Cathedral Rock | Committed

    Yosemite's Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress

    Situated on the south-side of the Yosemite Valley, looking directly at El Capitan, Middle Cathedral Rock is often overshadowed by the formers' reputation and prominence (speaking of which, check out the Smiley's climb of The Nose on El Cap). The 11 pitch East Buttress on Middle Cathedral Rock is, however, an absolute Yosemite classic. Check out Mark & Janelle Smiley's climb of the East Buttress as part of their mega-project to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory

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  • Patagonia Alpinism with Colin Haley - Nov 12

    Join us November 12 for a slideshow from Colin Haley on his home away from home: Patagonia Join us November 12 for a slideshow from Colin Haley on his home away from home: Patagonia

    Patagonia Alpinism: One Year in the Life of an Addict

    Colin Haley has been on a tear. The Seattle local has his climbing roots in the Cascades, but he has been linking up phenomenal climbs around the world. Colin has been spending much of his time playing in the climbing playground that is Patagonia. See what he has been up to and what makes Patagonia so special to him in an evening that promises to be awesome.

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: 'Patagonia Alpinism' slideshow with Colin Haley
    When: Tuesday, November 12th
    Time: Starts at 8pm
    Cost: Free!
    Bonus: Beverages, swag, and more!

    See you there!

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    Check out much of Colin's climbing activity on his Skagit Alpinism blog

  • Waiting on Fairweather | Committed


    Waiting on Fairweather

    Follow Mark and Janelle Smiley as they pursue climbing the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    Words by Mark Smiley

    In June we headed for Mt. Fairweather (15,325'), located a mere 13 miles from the Pacific coast in SE Alaska. The Carpe Ridge is the "classic" route on its South Face. This snow, ice, and rock route ascends a little under 11,000 vertical feet from the glacier camp. It's huge! I would equate it to a remote, steeper, rockier, longer, Liberty Ridge on Rainier.

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  • Jesse Huey - Alpinism in Pakistan - Sept 19

    Jesse Huey will be presenting on his path in alpinism and the difficult decisions in Pakistan after a terrorist attack in 2013 Jesse Huey will be presenting on his path in alpinism and the difficult decisions in Pakistan after a terrorist attack in 2013

    Jesse Huey - Alpinism Crossroads in Pakistan

    Over the last several years, Jesse has spent a large amount of his time pursing alpine climbing all over the world.  Three months ago, Jesse was faced with a difficult decision whether or not to continue on an alpine climbing expedition after terroists murded 11 climbers in Nanga Parbat Basecamp, just 80 miles from where he was going. Join Jesse as he shares the path that brought him to Pakistan and why he made the choice to come home.

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Jesse Huey - Alpinism Crossroads in Pakistan
    When: Thursday, September 19th
    Time: Starts at 8pm
    Cost: Free! $10 suggested donation for the Access Fund
    Bonus: Schwag from Feathered Friends, Arc'Teryx, and Scarpa | Cold Refreshments

    Hope to see you there!

  • Kristin Gates Brooks Range Solo - Sept 24th

    Kristin Gates will be presenting about her solo traverse of the Brooks Range September 24th at Feathered Friends! Kristin Gates will be presenting about her solo traverse of the Brooks Range September 24th at Feathered Friends!

    Kristin Gates | Solo Traverse of Alaska's Brooks Range

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Presentation by Kristin Gates on her solo traverse of the Brooks Range in Alaska
    When: Tuesday, September 24th
    Time: Starts at 8pm
    Cost: Free!
    Bonus: Schwag | Cold Refreshments

    Kristin Gates traversed the Brooks Range in Alaska, from the Yukon/Alaska Border to Kotzebue, by foot and packraft in the Spring of 2013. She was the first woman to accomplish this feat. Her 1,000+ mile traverse brought her through some of the more remote areas of the Last Frontier - no trails or people for miles, just big-time wilderness, stunning terrain and wildlife.

    See what her Alaskan Odyssey was all about at Feathered Friends on Tuesday, September 24th! Hope to see you there!
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  • Pickets Enchainment - Chad Kellogg & Jens Holsten | Sept 18

    Join us Wednesday, September 18th for a presentation by Chad Kellogg & Jens Hoslten, highlighting their enchainment of the Picket Range in the summer of 2013! Join us Wednesday, September 18th for a presentation by Chad Kellogg & Jens Hoslten, highlighting their enchainment of the Picket Range in the summer of 2013!

    Pickets Enchainment - with Chad Kellogg & Jens Holsten

    Where: Feathered Friends
    What: Slideshow of the Picket Range enchainment, good times, fundraiser for Chad Kellogg's Autumn Himalayan expedition
    When: Wednesday, September 18th
    Time: Starts at 8pm
    Cost: $10 at the door
    Bonus: Raffle for schwag from Feathered Friends, Outdoor Research, Black Diamond, Mountain Equipment | Cold Refreshments

    Climbing Stoke! Continue reading

  • West Ridge of Moose's Tooth Video

    Check out the newly released video of Mark & Janelle Smiley's ascent of the Moose's Tooth West Ridge in Alaska. Inspiring work!

    Get the full trip report at Moose's Tooth - West Ridge
    See the Smiley's project in progress at SmileysProject.com
    Stay tuned for more awesome videos this fall!

  • Moose's Tooth - West Ridge | Committed

    The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth

    Success on the Moose's Tooth

    By Mark Smiley

    Janelle and I were very excited to get back into the classic climbing circuit for the fourth year in a row, after an amazing winter overseas. We had spent 90 days in Europe, where Janelle competed in several countries with the best ski mountaineering racers in the world, while I made videos of the experience. The videos can be scene here (episodes 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5). In May we flew back to the States, and had 13 non-traveling days to pack and prep for our expeditions to Alaska. This was definitely not enough time, but we made it work. Most of the time I feel like a professional packer, always lugging around at least two fifty pound duffel bags and a way-to-heavy carry on. Life is so rough =)

    The first climb on our calendar for the year was the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth. This would be our second attempt. In 2010 we tried to climb it but got turned around largely due to Alaska sized intimidation, and horrible snow conditions.

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Expedition Tales