Tag Archives: mountaineering

  • West Ridge of Mt. Hunter | with Jed Porter

    Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo

    West Ridge of Mount Hunter, AK

    Climbing with Jon A is a guide's dream come true. While I have rambled on about the experience before, dishing out the platitudes over the years (Palisade Traverse '12, Evolution '12. Not documented: Palisade Traverse '09, V-Notch '10, Tetons '13), it still blows my mind to spend time with such a hard-charging, tough-as-nails, mountain fanatic. He is strong and mentally driven. He trains like a fiend and takes direction like a good soldier. Like most mountain fanatics, he tackles life's big questions with action and drive. That being said, I won't embarrass him to say that he needs my guidance just as much as any guest. He has his strengths and weaknesses. Long days of action are no problem. His residence at altitude works in our favor time and again. His pursuit of the finish line is deeply motivated. But he also pushes and scares himself sick and is happy to delegate technical skills and high-mountain risk management to this grateful pro.

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  • Waiting on Fairweather | Committed

    Waiting on Fairweather

    Follow Mark and Janelle Smiley as they pursue climbing the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    Words by Mark Smiley

    In June we headed for Mt. Fairweather (15,325'), located a mere 13 miles from the Pacific coast in SE Alaska. The Carpe Ridge is the "classic" route on its South Face. This snow, ice, and rock route ascends a little under 11,000 vertical feet from the glacier camp. It's huge! I would equate it to a remote, steeper, rockier, longer, Liberty Ridge on Rainier.

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  • Moose's Tooth - West Ridge | Committed

    The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth

    Success on the Moose's Tooth

    By Mark Smiley

    Janelle and I were very excited to get back into the classic climbing circuit for the fourth year in a row, after an amazing winter overseas. We had spent 90 days in Europe, where Janelle competed in several countries with the best ski mountaineering racers in the world, while I made videos of the experience. The videos can be scene here (episodes 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5). In May we flew back to the States, and had 13 non-traveling days to pack and prep for our expeditions to Alaska. This was definitely not enough time, but we made it work. Most of the time I feel like a professional packer, always lugging around at least two fifty pound duffel bags and a way-to-heavy carry on. Life is so rough =)

    The first climb on our calendar for the year was the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth. This would be our second attempt. In 2010 we tried to climb it but got turned around largely due to Alaska sized intimidation, and horrible snow conditions.

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Expedition Tales