Tag Archives: Smiley

  • West Ridge of Mt. Hunter | with Jed Porter

    Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo Navigating the crux rock band on the West Ridge of Hunter. For Sierra-trained ridgers, this rocky bit was no big deal. Jediah Porter Photo

    West Ridge of Mount Hunter, AK

    Climbing with Jon A is a guide's dream come true. While I have rambled on about the experience before, dishing out the platitudes over the years (Palisade Traverse '12, Evolution '12. Not documented: Palisade Traverse '09, V-Notch '10, Tetons '13), it still blows my mind to spend time with such a hard-charging, tough-as-nails, mountain fanatic. He is strong and mentally driven. He trains like a fiend and takes direction like a good soldier. Like most mountain fanatics, he tackles life's big questions with action and drive. That being said, I won't embarrass him to say that he needs my guidance just as much as any guest. He has his strengths and weaknesses. Long days of action are no problem. His residence at altitude works in our favor time and again. His pursuit of the finish line is deeply motivated. But he also pushes and scares himself sick and is happy to delegate technical skills and high-mountain risk management to this grateful pro.

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  • Yosemite - Middle Cathedral Rock | Committed

    Yosemite's Middle Cathedral Rock - East Buttress

    Situated on the south-side of the Yosemite Valley, looking directly at El Capitan, Middle Cathedral Rock is often overshadowed by the formers' reputation and prominence (speaking of which, check out the Smiley's climb of The Nose on El Cap). The 11 pitch East Buttress on Middle Cathedral Rock is, however, an absolute Yosemite classic. Check out Mark & Janelle Smiley's climb of the East Buttress as part of their mega-project to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory

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  • Waiting on Fairweather | Committed

    Waiting on Fairweather

    Follow Mark and Janelle Smiley as they pursue climbing the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    Words by Mark Smiley

    In June we headed for Mt. Fairweather (15,325'), located a mere 13 miles from the Pacific coast in SE Alaska. The Carpe Ridge is the "classic" route on its South Face. This snow, ice, and rock route ascends a little under 11,000 vertical feet from the glacier camp. It's huge! I would equate it to a remote, steeper, rockier, longer, Liberty Ridge on Rainier.

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  • West Ridge of Moose's Tooth Video

    Check out the newly released video of Mark & Janelle Smiley's ascent of the Moose's Tooth West Ridge in Alaska. Inspiring work!

    Get the full trip report at Moose's Tooth - West Ridge
    See the Smiley's project in progress at SmileysProject.com
    Stay tuned for more awesome videos this fall!

  • Moose's Tooth - West Ridge | Committed

    The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth The West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth

    Success on the Moose's Tooth

    By Mark Smiley

    Janelle and I were very excited to get back into the classic climbing circuit for the fourth year in a row, after an amazing winter overseas. We had spent 90 days in Europe, where Janelle competed in several countries with the best ski mountaineering racers in the world, while I made videos of the experience. The videos can be scene here (episodes 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5). In May we flew back to the States, and had 13 non-traveling days to pack and prep for our expeditions to Alaska. This was definitely not enough time, but we made it work. Most of the time I feel like a professional packer, always lugging around at least two fifty pound duffel bags and a way-to-heavy carry on. Life is so rough =)

    The first climb on our calendar for the year was the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth. This would be our second attempt. In 2010 we tried to climb it but got turned around largely due to Alaska sized intimidation, and horrible snow conditions.

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  • August 14 | Committed with Mark & Janelle Smiley


    Join us August 14th at 7:30pm for an evening of photo, video, and stories with Mark and Janelle Smiley on their endeavor to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

    2012 and 2013 have been loaded with massive classic climbs. Mark and Janelle will highlight their successes in photo and video from the stunning and seldom climbed South Face of Mt Waddington, cruelly-named Mt Fairweather, classic Alaskan climbing test pieces on Moose's Tooth and Mt Huntington, the uber classic Salathe Wall on El Capitan, and the iconic Mt Alberta.

    What: Committed - a Multimedia Presentation by Mark & Janelle Smiley
    Who: Mark and Janelle Smiley
    Where: Feathered Friends - 119 Yale Ave N, Seattle 98109
    When: August 14th, 2013
    Time: 7:30pm
    Cost: $5 at the door (includes a raffle ticket)
    Extras: Raffle for goods from La Sportiva, Feathered Friends, and more! Liquid refreshments also on hand. Prints will be available for purchase.

    Mt Waddington - South Face - V 5.7
    Mt Alberta - Japanese Route - IV 5.6
    Mt Huntington - West Face - V 5.9 A2
    Moose's Tooth - West Ridge - V
    Mt Fairweather - Carpe Ridge - 5.6 AI3
    El Capitan - Salathe Wall - VI 5.10 A3
    and more!

    Check out the Smiley's Project - including their progress, videos, and more -  online at smileysproject.com

    Hope to see you there!

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Expedition Tales