Feathered Friends Blog

Hummingbird Ridge on Mt, Logan, Canada's tallest mountain, has yet to be repeated.
Hummingbird Ridge on Mt, Logan, Canada’s tallest mountain, has yet to be repeated.

Hummingbird Ridge – Still Waiting for a 2nd Ascent | North America’s Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 4 & 5

WITH MARK & JANELLE SMILEY

Those of you fortunate enough to have seen Mark Smiley’s presentation at Feathered Friends back in September got a pretty good idea of how brutal Mt. Logan’s (19,551′) Hummingbird Ridge really was. Now, with the release of North America’s Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 4 & 5, everybody can see why this “classic” has only had one successful ascent… half a century ago…

Part I

Part II

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Ancient Art – The Coolest Top Out In Climbing? | North America’s Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 2

WITH MARK & JANELLE SMILEY

Episode 2 is live! From perfect splitters, terrible weather, dicey double cornices, stellar granite, Mark and Janelle Smiley saw a lot of what climbing had to offer in 2014. Each climb has attributes that make them unique and special. One look at Ancient Art in Utah’s Fisher Towers and it’s abundantly clear what makes this climb a classic – it is remarkably aesthetic. It’s main corkscrew route to the tiny top is a climb that draws climbers from around the world.

Because of its sandstone composition, Ancient Art may very well be ancient history in the near future. Check out what makes this classic so special with Mark and Janelle Smiley, and get after it!

Looking down from the tiny top-out of Ancient Art. Janelle Smiley on the belay.
Looking down from the tiny top-out of Ancient Art. Janelle Smiley on the belay.

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Ancient Art – The Coolest Top Out In Climbing? | North America’s Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 2 WITH MARK & JANELLE SMILEY Episode 2 is live! From perfect splitters, terrible weather, dicey double cornices, stellar granite, Mark and Janelle Smiley saw a lot of what climbing had to offer in 2014. Each climb has attributes … Continue reading Ancient Art – One Aesthetic Climb | Episode 2

The post Ancient Art – One Aesthetic Climb | Episode 2 appeared first on Expedition Tales.

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Fine Jade (5.11a) – Utah’s Best Sandstone Tower | North America’s Fifty Classic Climbs, Episode 1

With Mark & Janelle Smiley

Check out the first episode in 2015 from Mark & Janelle Smiley and EpicTV from Fine Jade, an absolute desert classic. Right on The Rectory in Moab’s Castle Valley, with fine views of Castleton Tower, and complemented by some of the finest sandstone cracks imaginable, it should be high on any trad climber’s list. See what this fantastic line in Utah’s high desert is all about!

As an epicenter for climbing, Moab's Castle Valley contains many classics, including Fine Jade (5.11a)
As an epicenter for climbing, Moab’s Castle Valley contains many classics, including Fine Jade (5.11a). Photo: Mark Smiley

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Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral Rock – East Buttress

Situated on the south-side of the Yosemite Valley, looking directly at El Capitan, Middle Cathedral Rock is often overshadowed by the formers’ reputation and prominence (speaking of which, check out the Smiley’s climb of The Nose on El Cap). The 11 pitch East Buttress on Middle Cathedral Rock is, however, an absolute Yosemite classic. Check out Mark & Janelle Smiley’s climb of the East Buttress as part of their mega-project to climb the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory
The East Buttress in all its vintage, classic glory

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